The Ruder Finn Watch-7th Issue

A Glimpse of the Past Month
市场纵深
Some figures and opinions: a prosperous year of 2018
一些数字和观点:2018开了个好头

The opening month of 2018 seemed favorable in figures of Swiss watch exports. Especially with a still stronger increase, Chinese mainland (+44.3%) climbed up to second place, overtaking the United States (-1.9%). Hong Kong, as the largest market, also sees a strong increase (+21.3%). As Chinese Spring Festival in 2018 took place in February, the figures of China market in February seems unoptimistic but we are wrong: China (+21.7%) also exceeded the 20% growth mark despite an unfavourable base effect. Hong Kong (+35.7%) and the United States (+26.3%) saw their strongest monthly advance for six years.

2018年1月份,根据瑞士钟表工业联合会的数据,瑞士对中国市场的钟表出口额同比增长44.3%,达到1.768亿瑞士法郎,这也使得中国内地在当月进口额上超过美国,成为全球第二大进口市场,仅次于香港地区。香港在1月份也录得21.3%的增长,总进口额2.422亿瑞郎。
今年的2月份恰逢中国春节,理论上会大大影响腕表进口的增势。然而中国市场还是实现了21.7%的增长,着实令人印象深刻。香港和美国市场则分别增长35.7%和26.3%,达到了六年以来的最高增幅。

Cause factors of watch market recovery in China from dealers’ view – by HODINKEE
从经销商的角度看中国腕表市场回暖的原因 – 来自HODINKEE的观点

The recovery of watch demand in China does not represent an easing of the anti-corruption restrictions. They remain in effect, Gauvillé says. “The rise in demand that we have seen is a catch-up from genuine consumers,” he told Hodinkee in a phone interview. “You had a big drop in 2013-2014, when genuine consumers feared being scrutinized for wearing a nice watch. Retailers in China told me their regular customers were afraid to buy a nice watch.” That lasted for three years. “This kind of ‘fear factor’ faded through time,” Gauvillé says, and that pent-up demand is driving sales now.

中国市场腕表需求的回暖并非意味着反腐所带来的影响降低。反腐对官员消费的限制依旧巨大。“需求上升是因为真正的消费群逐渐回升。2013-2014年(反腐启动)市场下跌得非常厉害,而那些真正的消费者也随之低调,不再热衷于购买和佩戴豪华腕表。中国的零售商反映说,腕表的老客户们都惧怕购买豪表。这一现象持续了三年,但这一“惧怕因素”随着时间的推移已慢慢消退,被压抑的需求如今正成为销售的驱动力。

Another factor that was hurting – but is now helping — watch sales was Chinese consumers’ flirtation with the stock market. “In 2014 and 2015 in China, there was a whole euphoria about buying stocks,” Gauvillé says. Consumers diverted disposable income from watches to the stock market. Then the stock market collapsed “and retail investors realized, ‘This is actually quite volatile. So, let’s buy watches again, it feels like it’s a better investment.'”

另一伤人的因素也在促使腕表市场回暖,即中国股市的震荡。2014及2015年的中国股市向好,大家都热衷于投资股市。消费者将其可支配收入也从可能的腕表购买转投股市。股市的崩盘让散户意识到投资的无常,使得购置腕表的投入再次回升。

2018 BASELWORLD
An Incomplete Recommendation of Timepieces – Episode 1
巴塞尔钟表珠宝展热门表款不完全一览(上)
Patek Philippe Aquanaut 5968A
百达翡丽Aquanaut 系列5968A腕表Patek Philippe this year is abundant in novelties. We see the first chronograph from Aquanaut collection. But surprisingly, besides a black “Tropical” strap, an additional orange strap is included in box, making the watch a stunning refreshing look, which is a rare change for Patek Philippe. Considering Patek Philippe also launched its official Instagram account recently, we look forward to seeing more changes taking place.今年的百达翡丽新品依旧精彩纷呈,Aquanaut系列也推出了该系列的第一款计时腕表5968A。但稍嫌意外的是,百达翡丽还为此款腕表配备一条橙色表带,与表盘上的橙色时标及指针细节相合。这一色彩上的改变带来了耳目一新的活力。以及,百达翡丽也刚刚开通了品牌官方的Instagram。这些细微的变化和暗示,让我们对百达翡丽又多了一些期待。
Rolex GMT-Master II
劳力士新款格林尼治型 II腕表The new stainless Rolex GMT-Master II is equipped with two-color Cerachrom insert “Pepsi” bezel and five-link Jubilee bracelet, and of course, the new-generation caliber 3285. The popular elements of the former GMT-Master are mostly retained while the new features found in the novelty is a magnet for new and old consumers alike.钢款,红蓝双色Cerachrom陶质的“百事圈”,俗称“五珠链”的五格链节纪念型表带,全新3285型机芯,大热的经典款元素得以保留,而新元素则从舒适性和功能性上吸引新老买家的关注。
Chopard Happy Palm
萧邦Happy Palm腕表

With diamonds studding in a creative way, Chopard Happy Sport Collection poetically interprets the philosophy of “flowing time”. This year sees the 25th birthday of the Happy Sport line, making the limited edition of Chopard Happy Palm watch an anniversary masterpiece with fine sophistication. The dial is decorated using the ancestral Japanese art of maki-e to masterfully reproduce the delicacy of a palm leaf. Five moving diamonds and a miniature “Palme d’or” dance around the finely crafted mother-of-pearl dial. All create a glittering magic with art and delight.透过“灵动钻石”的独特设计,萧邦 Happy Sport 系列浪漫表达着“流动时光”这一颇具哲学意味的主题。为纪念这一系列推出25周年,萧邦新推出的 Happy Palm 限量腕表,可谓艳惊四座:以莳绘工艺表盘在珍珠母贝表盘上细腻绘制出棕榈叶丛;除了五颗美钻,更有一座迷你金棕榈在表盘上舞动不息,以精巧的艺术性乃至趣味性取悦优雅女性。

HUBLOT Big Bang Referee 2018 FIFA World Cup Russia
宇舶表Big Bang 2018年俄罗斯世界杯裁判腕表

With audacity, Hublot just connected itself with the smart watch. The Big Bang Referee 2018 FIFA World Cup Russia is a Hublot watch that is loyal to the brand DNA but a connected watch. The watch is connected to various football-oriented functions, especially connected to goal-line technology, an electronic video assistance system for refereeing which follows all the trajectories of the ball and determines for certain if the ball did or did not entirely cross the goal line. The suggested retail price is USD5200, making it the most inexpensive Hublot Watch, and possibly the most expensive smart watch.稍嫌意外,宇舶推出了品牌的第一支智能腕表。这枚名为Big Bang Referee 2018 FIFA World Cup Russia的智能腕表限量2018枚,且是 2019 年世界杯裁判指定手表。有丰富的世界杯主题选择,还能通知比赛统计,提供进球震动。售价为5200美元,这可能是最便宜的宇舶腕表,也可能是最贵的智能腕表。

Corum Golden Bridge 39mm
昆仑表金桥系列39毫米圆形腕表(高级珠宝表款)The Haute Joaillerie timepiece by Corum is an integration of both mechanical and gem-setting aesthetics. The iconic baguette movement is the central element and core identity of the Golden Bridge. Corum’s artisans have chosen marquise-cut tsavorite stones, which set in a genuine gold lacework that extends across the movement, giving the impression that rays of light are emanating from the movement and radiating out toward the case. Each stone sparkles differently, depending on the angle, nature and intensity of the light that is cast on it, meaning that the Golden Bridge Round 39 never looks quite the same throughout the day.视觉上而言,这枚高级珠宝腕表可谓是机械美学和宝石镶嵌美学的结晶。标志性的长方形金桥机芯居于“天地之中”,上下两端为金质蕾丝基底。这枚腕表所散发出的熠熠光彩,源自其特意挑选榄尖形的沙弗莱石进行向心性的密集镶嵌,让光线自机芯向外缘散射,宝石的排列角度、特性及入射光线的强度也使得腕表在每天的不同时刻,有着独具一格的光华。
Longines Master Annual Calendar
浪琴表名匠系列年历腕表This is the first annual calendar timepiece for Longines Master Collection, also the first for Longines current collections. With 64-hour power reserve, The L897 movement is exclusive to Longines. As one of the most practical complications, annual calendar is always favored by mechanical watch lovers, also the function offers greater possibilities for Longines functional portfolio.这枚名为L897的年历机械机芯依旧是浪琴独家,拥有64小时动能储备。名匠系列作为品牌的主力畅销系列,也是浪琴表首个配备年历功能的表款系列。作为最实用的复杂功能之一,年历腕表的推出让机械爱好者们侧目,也让浪琴表今后在功能性上的组合拥有了更多可能。
Omega Seamaster Professional Diver 300M
欧米茄海马系列300米至臻天文台潜水表Equipped with Caliber 8800, the Omega Seamaster Professional Diver 300M now is also with Master Chronometer Certification. For the stainless steel version, the ceramic bezel is of white enamel inlays, also we see a cone-shaped helium escape valve, a ceramic dial, and more importantly, a very competitive pricing.凭借搭载8800机芯,海马系列的3000米潜水表在2018年也步入了至臻天文台的行列。不锈钢款的表圈潜水刻度以白色珐琅制作,陶瓷表盘,全新的圆锥形排氦阀门,定价上更是颇有竞争力。
Oris Carl Brashear Chronograph Limited Edition
豪利时Carl Brashear 限量版计时码表As a “unconventional” material for watch case, bronze is being popular and the trend will be up. Like the stories of heroes, Bronze ages over time, developing a natural patina that will make each watch bespoke and unique to its wearer. Oris announced the second limited edition watch with bronze cased and two-counter chronograph to pay a tribute to Carl Brashear, who was one of the most inspirational figures of the 20th century, defying racial tensions, disability and the weight of history to become the U.S. Navy’s first African American and first amputee Master Diver. Oris has chosen the material again to represent the early diving equipment Brashear used, which was also made of bronze, and has chosen a chronograph function for this special watch as a symbol of the number of times Carl Brashear was stopped by factors in his life he couldn’t control, and yet always got back up again.青铜腕表的热度近年来并未褪去,且短期内也不会褪去。因为这种材质就像英雄的故事一样,随着时光的流逝,这种充满魅力的金属会孕育出独一无二的花纹和印迹。豪利时选择青铜材质推出第二代Carl Brashear限量版计时码表,灵感源自美国海军历史上首位非洲裔潜水长Carl Brashear,他打败了种族歧视、克服了身体残障,被认为是二十世纪最励志的人物之一。表壳受到了Carl身处时代青铜深潜头盔的启发,也借“有色金属”向Carl挑战种族歧视的壮举致敬;选择用计时码表功能,则是向Carl Brashear在深潜生涯中曾多次被意外“停止”,但他总能克服困难,“重启”自己前进的步伐而致敬。这是一枚有颜值、有内涵、有故事的腕表。
What Was Happening
品牌动向
Van Cleef & Arpels Presented a Press Conference to Launch the “When Elegance Meets Art” Exhibition at Beijing
梵克雅宝举行“When Elegance Meets Art 雅艺之美”典藏臻品回顾展新闻发布会On 2 February, Van Cleef & Arpels held a press conference to announce that an exhibition themed on “When Elegance Meets Art” will be held from April 21st to August 5th at Beijing Today Art Museum.
Over 380 masterpieces will be displayed to show the brand’s style transformation in the past hundred years. And it is for the first time that these jewelry pieces will stay in China as long as nearly 4 months since it came out of Musée des Arts Décoratifs in 2012.
The exhibition is regarded as an important event for Festival Croisements 2018. At the press conference, 10 must-see masterpieces were exhibited.2月2日,梵克雅宝于北京法国大使馆举行新闻发布会,宣布“When Elegance Meets Art雅艺之美”典藏臻品回顾展将于2018年4月21日至8月5日期间在今日美术馆中亮相。自2012年巴黎装饰艺术博物馆初次展出以来,包含最新收藏的作品在内的近400件来自世家典藏及私人藏家的艺术臻品,将首次在华停留近4个月。这些世家珍宝由有”黄金之手“之称的梵克雅宝工艺大师代代传承,力图展现梵克雅百年间的风格演化历程。

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