The Ruder Finn Watch-A Feast of Time Selections from the 28th SIHH 时光的盛筵 2018 SIHH特辑

The increase trend of Swiss watch export in value has made 2018 SIHH a relatively at-ease one. As a whole the industry has seen 2.7% export growth over the year 2017 and the main Asian markets generally saw steep increases in the final months of the year. Mainland China and Hong Kong made an increase of 12.3% and 11.8% respectively in December 2017. Also, Swatch Group had “a good year” in 2017 quoted by Nick Hayek’s, with a 5.8% (constant rates) increase in group’s total revenues.

过去的2017年,瑞士钟表出口数据整体上行。在2017年的最后一个月,瑞士钟表出口同比增长2.7%;大陆和香港市场继续保持相对显著的复苏迹象,分别增长12.3%和11.8%。尼克·海耶克也认为斯沃琪集团在2017年迎来了好时光。按恒定汇率计算,2017年斯沃琪集团净销售额同比增长5.8%。整体行业转暖,使得2018年初的日内瓦国际高级钟表沙龙(SIHH)的人流回潮。

So was The 28th Salon International de la Haute Horlogerie (2018 SIHH), which welcomed another expansion this year with six new brands – Hermès as an exhibitor and Armin Strom, Chronométrie Ferdinand Berthoud, DeWitt, Élégante by F.P.Journe and Romain Gauthier at the Carré des Horlogers. The attendance figures are a 20% increase comparing with that of 2017, with a record number of almost 20,000 visitors, which also highlights a recovery. Product-wise, we once again see evolutions and revolutions, catering to general consumers and “picky” collectors. From each exhibitor, we’d like to have 1 selected novelty to represent the brand’s DNA with an intensive review of why choosing it.

第28届日内瓦国际高级钟表沙龙(SIHH)再次迎来新成员,2018年新增6位:爱马仕作为高级制表参展品牌加入,而 Carré des Horlogers 展区则迎来5位全新成员—— Armin Strom、DeWitt、Chronométrie Ferdinand Berthoud、Élégante by F.P.Journe和Romain Gauthier。今年展会的参观人次较2017年更是激增20%,达到近2万名参访者的新高,成为市场回暖的佐证之一。产品层面上,依旧是进化和变革并存的风貌,籍以迎合大众和“挑剔”的藏家群体。我们从每家参展品牌中甄选出一枚表款,予以综评。

 

A. Lange & Söhne 朗格

As a renowned manufacture for innovation on traditional complications, A. Lange & Söhne now push the limits of chronograph complication even further: the Triple Split. It is a world-first chronograph that allows you to “split” hours and minutes, as well as seconds, i.e., allows multi-hour comparative time measurements. It definitely attracts certain collectors who are a small audience but with absolute purchasing power and ultimate mechanical complex.

对传统复杂功能予以极致的创新追求,成就了朗格三追针。时针、分针和秒针均可“追”,将分段计时的时间长度拉长至数小时,再次加冕机械计时功能,绝对的曲高和寡,吸引着相对小众但有着浓郁机械情结的高端藏家群体。

 

Audemars Piguet 爱彼

The quest for world firsts never ends in the world of Audemars Piguet. Both perpetual calendar and extra-thin are traditional feats of haute horlogerie and now the two encounter in Royal Oak, in an ultimate manner: 5 years of research and development, at just 6.3 mm thick with a 2.89mm think rotor, making the world’s thinnest Selfwinding Perpetual Calendar.

万年历、超薄,这两项传统意义上的复杂功能(在复杂程度上,超薄机械机芯的研制的确可谓是一种复杂功能),如今在爱彼皇家橡树系列中邂逅,并以2.89毫米的摆陀、6.3毫米的表壳厚度,成就了当今世界上最纤薄的自动上链万年历腕表。耗时5年研发方成。

 

Baume & Mercier 名士

In terms of specifications, Baume & Mercier Clifton Baumatic COSC is the right watch to define what a reliable mechanical watch should be. The caliber BM12-1975A maintain chronometer-grade accuracy over the entire 120-hour power reserve can tolerate a field strength of at least 1500 gauss.
The optimized escapement and lubricants can make the caliber BM12-1975A run for years longer than the usual industry standard 5 year service interval.

作为一款日常佩戴的机械表新作,名士Clifton Baumatic COSC可谓诚意满满。从用户出发的研发思路让人点赞:首枚由名士协同历峰集团研发成功的自动上链机械机芯,天文台(COSC)认证、120小时动力储存、硅质游丝和高性能擒纵机构可抵抗1500高斯磁场,专用润滑油的使用使得腕表保养周期超过5年,迎合了用户对精准度、动力持久性、磁场敏感度、耐用性等痛点的诉求。

Cartier 卡地亚

Led by the Mystery Clocks, Cartier is the right brand to own “magic” functions. So “unsurprisingly”, Cartier unveiled Révélation d’Une Panthère in a big surprise, a watch featuring a transient visage of panther, created by 900 shimmering gold balls suspended in liquid.

深入人心的神秘钟让卡地亚成为最有资格开发“神秘”功能的高级制表品牌,而这枚Révélation d’Une Panthère流动金珠猎豹装饰高级珠宝腕表可能是本届SIHH最具“魔法”的一枚腕表了。一枚基于精巧创意、悉心研发后的豹形“沙漏”:900枚金珠在重力作用下沿着肉眼不可见的精密轨道次第流动,勾勒出华美的猎豹图案。

Girard-Perregaux 芝柏

Girard-Perregaux Laureato 42 mm Ceramic watch is famous for its octagonal bezel integrated with the round case, reaching a harmonious aesthetic achievement and merged into the bracelet of the same material. The black ceramic applied in the novelty tells a story of sophistication in a low profile. The black ceramic is polished and satin-finished, creating a contrastive tone of dark shade. Lastly, the “Clou de Paris” pattern in the same color on dial completes the black in black design concept.

芝柏Laureato全黑陶瓷腕表以八角形表圈与圆形表壳共同建构了和谐的方圆之美,并与表链融汇一体。只是这一次,黑色陶瓷的光泽诠释了一种低调的精致。拉丝和镜面抛光交替的装饰手法令黑色陶瓷展现出深邃与耀目交替的观感,饰有巴黎钮钉(Clou de Paris)图案的表盘则更将黑色进行到底。

Greubel Forsey 高珀富斯

Greubel Forsey Double Balancier, now available in 5N red gold featuring a black gold and enamel dial, narrates a symmetrical universe in a mechanical perspective. The movement mechanism is visibly three-dimensional at the front side, especially the two inclined regulating organs, making distinct and separate spaces as their habitat, inviting you to dive into the flowing river of time.

首次以5N红金表壳、黑色金质珐琅表盘打造的高珀富斯双重摆轮腕表向我们讲述了一个对称的微观机械宇宙。双摆轮左右安装于交错的立体空间内,令机芯运行机制真实呈现于眼前,倾斜设计所带来的视觉落差,令人仿若坠入时间的长河。

Hermès 爱马仕

The first time ever to attend SIHH as an exhibitor, Hermès welcomed the return of Carré H watch, in a new style. The design language of Carré H is seemingly effortless but detail-oriented: square-shaped case has been slightly enlarged; the polished steel case is with microbead-blasted finishes, together with a right-angled guilloché dial and facetted hands and numerals. The softened edges of the square, the curved profile of the case, the cylindrical crystal and the exclusive font of the numerals – making use of the zero – contributes to the new aesthetic equilibrium of this watch.

作为首次参展SIHH的品牌,爱马仕迎来了Carré H腕表的回归。该腕表的设计语言轻盈现代,却充满细节:方形表壳的表径略有增大,精钢表壳以抛光及微粒喷砂处理,玑镂表盘采用直角排列饰纹,指针及阿拉伯数字时标有着细致的刻面。这枚方形腕表有着四个圆角的流线造型,微弧的表壳覆以微拱水晶表镜,以及个位数前加“0”的时标“阵列”,为该腕表增添了新颖的美学平衡感。

IWC 万国表

For IWC’s 150th anniversary, three limited-edition “IWC Tribute to Pallweber” wristwatches have won great popularities with the jumping numerals for a digital display of time. The hours and minutes are displayed in large numerals on rotating discs with a barrel of its own. The new solution of the display mechanism is patent-pending with great reliability, contributing a timeless piece in the Jubilee collection.

品牌周年大庆,是推出炫技的高复杂表款还是用心的限量量产款?万国选择了后者,并大获好评。“致敬波威柏(Pallweber)”150周年特别版腕表以跳字显示机制,以返璞归真、一目了然的读时方式,及其创新的以专有发条盒驱动数字显示盘机制,打造了一款隽永、可靠的周年庆机械腕表,跳进下一个时代!

Jaeger-LeCoultre 积家

Jaeger-LeCoultre Polaris is an ideal company for modern urban adventurer, also a tribute to one of the manufacture’s icons, Memovox Polaris of 1968. The date, alarm, chronograph and Worldtime chronograph complications equipped in different models made the Polaris collection a diverse one. Also worth noting is that repeater alarm function in the 956 Calibre, equipped in Jaeger-LeCoultre Polaris Memovox, is descended from the original Jaeger-LeCoultre Memovox, dating back to 1950.

2018年的北宸系列代表的是当代运动风尚,也是对50年前Memovox极地响闹腕表的回溯与致敬。首发的5款腕表涵括了自动腕表、计时腕表、世界时计时腕表、日历腕表和响闹腕表,其中响闹腕表所使用的956型机械机芯与积家在1950年代设计的首款自动响闹腕表机芯一脉相承。有情怀,也有今天的态度。

Montblanc 万宝龙

Each of two turning domed hemisphere globes make a full rotation in 24 hours to feature the manufacture’s worldtime complication, making the Montblanc 1858 Geosphere embodying the spirit of mountain exploration with a professional and innovative timepiece. The world’s Seven Summits are marked on the globes with red dots, enhancing the spirit of mountain exploration while the case back engraved along with the unique drawing of the Mont Blanc mountain, a compass and two crossed ice pick-axes.

两个分别从北极和南极视角描绘的立体半球,以不同的转向每24小时旋转一圈,以此显示南北半球各地的世界时间。万宝龙1858系列Geosphere世界时腕表以创新专业时计的形式,对山峰探险精神予以致意。世界七大高峰的位置以红点标注于表盘的南、北半球之上,它们的名字同样也镌刻于表背之上。表背中央则以勃朗峰山脉图案以及一个罗盘和两把冰镐装饰,山峰探险精神一脉相承。

Panerai 沛纳海

The property of elegance formerly had nothing to do with Panerai, but things change as the Swiss-made Italian brand debuted Luminor Due in 2016, which has been proven to be a right move to optimize the product portfolio. The timeless design and the dedication in fine watchmaking all these years have made the brand what it is today, and the new Luminor Due with a 38mm-diameter is absolutely a surprise in 2018 SIHH and will attract more potential audience, even more women, although it still will be a gentleman’s watch.

斯文,这个看似与我们对沛纳海传统认知相悖的调性,在品牌于2016年首发Luminor Due系列后,于今年再次延展。厚重且大尺寸一度是沛纳海最具甄别度的符号,但真正让沛纳海无往不利的是品牌对历久弥新的设计的坚持。全新38毫米表径的沛纳海 Luminor Due 腕表可谓是本届SIHH一个美好且“意外”的邂逅,沿袭表壳及表盘设计的DNA,却更贴合现代环境下的每日穿搭,更小的表径相信会赢得亚洲男性,乃至追求个性的女性的青睐。

Parmigiani 帕玛强尼

We see the renaissance of Kalpa Collection – a collection of tonneau-shaped case – from Parimigani Fleurier in 2018. As a flagship, Kalpa Chronor is an integrated chronograph with a 18-carat gold COSC-certified PF365 movement, which oscillates at a frequency of 5 Hertz, or 36,000 vibrations per hour, guaranteeing greater chronograph accuracy (1/10 of a second).

2018年,帕玛强尼最经典的酒桶形腕表Kalpa系列迎来新生。Kalpa Chronor腕表则是一枚集成式计时码表,获天文台(COSC)认证的PF365机芯有着36,000振次/小时(5赫兹)的高频和1/10秒的计时精度,贴合酒桶形表壳的异形轮廓,且以金质(主基板和板桥部分)打造,与玫瑰金表壳和时标相呼应。复杂,纯粹。

Piaget 伯爵

The Piaget Altiplano Ultimate Concept Watch was presented in the 28th SIHH, of which the 2mm thick makes it the thinnest hand-wound watch in the world. Also, the gold bracelets featuring original designs became one of the Maison’s signature innovations during the 1960s and 1970s. Through the virtuosity of its goldsmithing, Piaget has turned precious gold into sumptuous textures with fur-like, frost-like and wood-like decorations.

伯爵Altiplano超薄概念表实物于今年的SIHH上展出,整表2.0mm的厚度使其成为全球目前最薄的一款手动上链腕表。但新款Extremely Lady系列在工艺性上的突破同样令人过目难忘:腕表创造性地利用古老罕见的黄金工艺,在稀有的玫瑰金与白金表带表面表现出生动的毛皮、霜花与木质纹理。

Richard Mille 理查德米尔

It is so Richard Mille to show an ultimate dedication of injecting the mechanical soul into the elegant Polo sport. A crystal of laminated sapphire watch glass, a watch case in carbon TPT ®, a suspension-based infrastructure caliber, all make the RM 53-01 Pablo mac Donough an extreme watch with 30 pieces only.

为一项优雅的运动专注到底,将机械之心的奇想,以同样天马行空的方式呈现于方寸之间,即是RM 53-01 Pablo mac Donough陀飞轮腕表。层压式蓝宝石水晶表镜、 TPT® 碳纤维表壳、悬索式机芯、坚固且美丽。

Roger Dubuis 罗杰杜彼

Roger Dubuis x Lamborghini Squadra Corse = Excalibur Aventador S. The one with C-SMC carbon skeleton case debuted in 2018 SIHH achieved the racing spirit by a touch of Neptune blue of sport aesthetic. The Excalibur Adventador S Blue is crafted from the same C-SMC carbon as that used on the actual Lamborghini cars. The imperceptible true second and power reserve indicator tell another sporty facet of time.

宛若兰博基尼引擎的罗杰杜彼Excalibur Aventador S蓝色腕表使用RD103SQ双游丝摆轮镂空机芯,45毫米的C-SMC复层碳纤维镂空表壳,采用与Lamborghini兰博基尼汽车相同技术制成的C-SMC(片状塑模)碳纤维。不易察觉的动显和跳秒更是平添腕表的运动风味。

Ulysse Nardin 雅典

The Freak Vision is just like the name: the astonishingly light balance wheel is with solid nickel elements, and adding silicium micro-blades to stabilize amplitudes and significantly increase accuracy; the Anchor Escapement; the baguette movement and a “flying carrousel” rotating around its own axis; the new 3D carved upper bridge inspired by a boat’s hull; and the new box-domed sapphire, all together deconstruct the form of a traditional mechanical movement but construct a new mechanical movement based on micromechanics.

奇想创见(Freak Vision),这枚腕表的个性和它的名字一样:镍元素制作的平衡摆轮、用以稳定摆轮摆幅的硅质微型薄片、锚式恒定摆动擒纵装置、条状机芯及绕其旋转的飞行卡罗素、3D立体船身造型的上层齿轮板桥、“磨床”式自动上链系统、弧形圆顶水晶玻璃表镜……这些共同构成了在尊崇机械机芯运作原理的基础之上,对机械机芯实现了解构再建构。

Vacheron Constantin 江诗丹顿

Before the plane’s invention by Wright Brothers, humans had been keeping pursuing the dream to fly, and five flights by Aérostiers in France during 1783-1785 really count. Vacheron Constantin Métiers d’Art Les Aérostiers collection accomplished an authentic feat: Splendid hand-engraved and micro-sculpted gold hot-air balloons hover against a translucent plique-à-jour enamel background.

在莱特兄弟成功发明飞机之前,人类对飞行梦想的追寻也一直从未止步。1783-1785年之间在法国进行的5次热气球飞行,即是我们探索飞行的浪漫壮举。今年,江诗丹顿首次将金雕与镂空珐琅工艺结合并运用于表盘制作,推出 Métiers d’Art 艺术大师系列 Les Aérostiers 热气球腕表。以颜色深浅各不相同的半透明镂空珐琅渲染天空,五个精美绝伦的热气球微缩精雕于表盘之上,让艺术,也华丽升空。

Van Cleef-Arpels 梵克雅宝

Less is more, and being simplified can be fabulously sophisticated. Lady Arpels Planétarium by Van Cleef & Arpels is a perfect example. As a newcomer from Poetic Astronomy™, Lady Arpels Planétarium illustrates the Sun and the closest planets: Mercury, Venus and finally Earth, along with its natural satellite, the Moon. To regulate this piece of complications now simply relies on one single crown, which elaborates the user- friendliness under the poetic form. The complicated movement, along with the art of gem-setting and enameling, recreate an unparalleled experience of stargazing.

有时候,做减法也会让人喝彩。梵克雅宝Lady Arpels Planétarium 腕表即是这样一个例子。作为 Poetic Astronomy™ 诗意星象腕表的最新成员,Lady Arpels Planétarium 腕表将太阳与邻近行星,包括水星、金星、地球及其天然卫星月球栩栩如生地呈现于眼前。并化繁为简,以单一表冠即可进行调校。以精巧复杂的机芯实现创想,以宝石切割、镶嵌、珐琅制作等工艺成就玲珑天地内的浩瀚寰宇。

About Jaycee

发表评论

您的电子邮箱地址不会被公开。 必填项已用*标注