The Ruder Finn Watch – 10th Issue

A Glimpse of the Past Month
市场纵深
Trends of Down-to-earth
趋势:务实
Watchmaking Trends Report 2018 by Fondation Haute Horlogerie was released recently. The report covers facts, views and opinions from Figures, External Parts, Design, Movements and Forecasts, from brand executives to watchmakers, to designers, and to influencers.
From novelties unveiled in 2018 SIHH and Baselworld, products are back to the fundamentals of Fine Watchmaking: new collections with more affordable price points; simple to mid complications with practical functions; more color options and interchangeable straps for personality and individuality expressions.
The quickness of digital/internet vs. the relatively long cycles of fine watchmaking product development makes each brand’s digital turn necessarily a must but also a learning process; the timely product responsiveness to meet the needs of new buying public, to adapt the economic uncertainty, is more crucial than before. However, the last sentence in the “Conclusion” part of the report says: “one element remains unchanged: Fine Watchmaking continues to appeal to our hearts and minds with products that, year after year, are a culmination of expertise, creativity and innovation. Values that withstand the test of time.”

瑞士高级制表基金会(FHH)近日发布了《2018制表业趋势报告》,从材质结构、设计风格、机芯功能、未来趋向四个方面,结合数据表现、新品实例、品牌高层、制表师、设计师及意见领袖观点阐释,结合市场及产品维度,表达了高级制表业的近期趋势。
纵观今年的日内瓦高级钟表沙龙(SIHH)及巴塞尔钟表珠宝博览会(Baselworld)新品,瑞士制表业更加务实:拥有更加亲民定价的全新作品系列,搭载从基本到中等复杂功能机芯的实用表款,提供更多色彩的表盘选择,更多材质和色彩的可替换表带以彰显个性。
在当前的商业市场层面上,一面是线上及数字化的迅速发展与变化,一面是品牌较长的产品研发周期。每个制表品牌都在经历数字化面向的转型,这是确定的,却也是一个学习的过程。品牌需要以正确的产品应对新的消费群、直面宏观经济的不确定性,这一点从未如此重要。最重要的信心,体现在报告结论篇的最后一段:“一个不变的因素是:高级制表依旧会以叩击心灵的作品吸引着我们的目光,这是对技艺、创意和创新的经年累积,是历经时光考验后的真正价值之所在。”

Pre-owned watch market runs deep
二手表市场再掀波澜
The sound negotiability and pricing of Patek Philippe and Rolex in pre-owned market is a reinforcement of the brand image and WOM, especially when most second-hand trades occur online, the price transparency is no longer a mystery, affecting consumers’ confidence in purchasing new watches, which is more crucial for luxury watches which boast a lower annual yield. On the other hand, especially in US market, people sold watches because they are in want of buying a new one, so the pre-owned market is a driving force for new sales. F.P. Journe has tested to offer official services for its pre-owned watches, while Audemars Piguet, MB&F and H. Moser & Cie will also initiate officially this year. Then, comes the news that Richemont group has reached agreement to acquire Watchfinder.co.uk Limited, a leading platform to research, buy and sell premium pre-owned watches, both online and through its seven boutiques. A more organized second-hand market can be expected.
The official entry into the pre-owned watch market will make the hard luxury products even “harder”
.
百达翡丽和劳力士各自在二手表市场上有着相对坚挺的流通性和价格,反过来部分强化了品牌的形象和口碑。网络的发展使得二手表的交易价格从未如此透明,这一方面会影响消费者购买全新表款的信心,这一点对于年产量较低的一些顶尖品牌而言至关重要;但另一方面,尤其在美国市场,二手表交易源于表主想购买新款的动机,二手表市场反而成为新一轮销售的驱动力。儒纳(F.P. Journe)已推出针对其二手表款的官方翻新、出售及质保服务。爱彼(Audemars Piguet)、MB&F以及亨利慕时(H. Moser & Cie)也将于今年正式开始官售品牌认证或翻新后的二手表。而就在近日,历峰集团已与英国二手手表交易平台Watchfinder.co.uk Limited达成收购协议,并100%控股。该平台包括在线平台和线下7家精品店。一个愈发规范的高级钟表二手市场可期。
品牌官方涉猎高级钟表二手市场,会让硬奢侈品产业愈发坚实。
What Was Happening
品牌动向
Rolex Held 2018 BASELWORLD Novelties Preview in Shanghai
劳力士于上海举办2018巴塞尔新品预览会

From 7 May to 9 May, ROLEX held 2018 BASELWORLD Novelties Preview in Shanghai.
New Oyster Perpetual timepieces launched in BASELWORLD 2018 include new GMT-Master II, new Datejust 36, new Datejust 31 and new Rolex Deepsea were presented at the preview event.

5月7日至5月9日,ROLEX劳力士在上海举办了2018年巴塞尔国际钟表珠宝展新品媒体预览会。
此次鉴赏会展出了于2018年巴塞尔国际钟表珠宝展上隆重推出的新款蚝式腕表,包含劳力士格林尼治型 II,劳力士蚝式恒动日志型36,劳力士蚝式恒动日志型31和新款蚝式恒动劳力士深潜型腕表。

BVLGARI LVCEA Tubogas Launched in Beijing
宝格丽LVCEA Tubogas光环腕表于北京发布

On 9 May, the all-new BVLGARI LVCEA Tubogas watch made a glittering entrance at the BVLGARI Hotel Beijing.
Mr. Jean-Christophe Babin, CEO of BVLGARI Group, and famous Chinese actresses Ms. Yan Tang, Ms. Tian’ai Zhang, Ms. Yixin Tang and Ms. Rong Yang witnessed the launch of this magnificent new watch.
A modern classic reimagined, the Lvcea Tubogas watch is merging two of the symbols of Bvlgari – the classical style and delicate comfort. 38 pieces of Tubogas vintage watches, jewelry and modern timepieces were also exhibited in the launch event.

5月9日,BVLGARI宝格丽于北京宝格丽酒店推出了全新的LVCEA Tubogas光环腕表。宝格丽集团首席执行官Jean-Christophe Babin先生与唐嫣、张天爱、唐艺昕、杨蓉四位知名演员莅临现场,共襄盛宴。此次发布会现场还展出了38件Tubogas古董腕表、珠宝及现代腕表作品。

PANERAI Held SIHH Novelties Preview in Shanghai
沛纳海于上海举办SIHH新品鉴赏会

On 10 May, PANERAI held a SIHH Novelties Preview at IAPM Shanghai.
New collection Luminor Due, 6 new timepieces from Luminor Base Logo collection, Lo Scienziato Luminor 1950 Tourbillon GMT Titanio and L’Atronomo Luminor 1950 Tourbillon Moon Phases Equation of Time GMT watch were presented at the preview event.

5月10日,PANERAI沛纳海于上海IAPM店铺内举办鉴赏会,展出于2018年SIHH上发布的全新腕表。
此次鉴赏会带来新款Luminor Due, Luminor Logo,Lo Scienziato Luminor 1950 47毫米陀飞轮两地时间钛金属腕表及L’Atronomo Luminor 1950 50毫米陀飞轮月相时间等式两地时间腕表。

New Possession pieces were presented at the PIAGET Sunny Side of Life Party
伯爵夏日阳光派对活动,推出Possession系列2018新作

On 11 May, PIAGET celebrated the Sunny Side of Life philosophy with an exclusive cocktail party at Minsheng Art Museum Beijing and brought the watch and jewelry novelties from Possession collection.
Ms. Chabnam Nouri, CEO of PIAGET, Mr. Mathieu Delmas, CEO of PIAGET China, Mrs. Mi Yang, Fashion Ambassador of PIAGET and famous actor Mr. Ethan Juan attended the event.
The event created a unique immersive summer adventure through ‘Sunny Side of Life’, exhibiting and magnifying the new PIAGET Possession collection to offer a never-ending flow of beautiful, solar, festive and surprising experiences. Led by Mrs. Mi Yang, a video themed “the Sunny Side of Life”  were also launched at the celebration.

5月11日,PIAGET伯爵于北京民生现代美术馆举办夏日阳光派对,并发布Possession系列新作。
派对当晚,PIAGET伯爵首席执行官Chabnam Nouri女士、中国区新任行政总裁Mathieu Delmas先生,全新时尚大使杨幂及知名演员阮经天亲临现场,共庆这一闪耀时刻。
派对现场还隆重发布了由杨幂演绎的Sunny side of Life影片。

TAG Heuer Supported the #allredallequal# campaign of Manchester United
泰格豪雅助力曼联足球俱乐部#allredallequal#活动

On 13th May, as the official timekeeper of Premier League and Manchester United, TAG Heuer especially joined the #ILOVEUNITED Manchester United Fans Event that was held at Jingyuan Art Centre Beijing.
Mr. Dwight Yorke, the Ambassador of Manchester United, Mr. Park Ji-Sung, famous football player and Mr. Ronny Johnsen, the legendary football player attended the event.
At the event, TAG Heuer launched the Connected Modular 45 Manchester United Special Edition to support the #allredallequal# campaign of Manchester United (To promote the equality, toleration and diversification of Football Clubs). Moreover, the 11 timepieces of Connected Modular 45 Manchester United Special Edition which were worn by Manchester United players at the pre-competition ceremony, will be auctioned off after the competition and all proceeds will go to Manchester United Foundation.

5月13日,作为英超联赛和曼联足球俱乐部的官方计时合作伙伴,TAG Heuer泰格豪雅特别加盟于北京竞园艺术中心举办的#ILOVEUNITED曼联球迷派对。
曼联大使德怀特·约克,知名足球运动员朴智星以及传奇球员罗尼·约翰森出席了此次派对。
在派对中,泰格豪雅揭幕全新的卡莱拉系列Modular 45智能腕表曼联特别款,助力曼联足球俱乐部#allredallequal#活动(旨在倡导和促进足球俱乐部,无论球场内外,均能做到平等、包容与多元化)。而在赛前入场仪式中,由曼联队球员们佩戴于腕间的11枚Connected Modular 45智能腕曼联特别款也依次亮相,这些表款均会在比赛过后进行慈善拍卖,所得善款将全部捐赠予曼联基金会。

“HUBLOT Loves Art” Exhibition at JINGART Beijing
“宇舶爱艺术”展览闪耀首届JINGART艺览北京博览

On 17 May, HUBLOT held “HUBLOT Loves Art” exhibition as a part of the JINGART exhibition at Beijing Quanye Chang.
Mr. Lang Lang, the Brand Ambassador of HUBLOT attended the opening ceremony of JINGART exhibition and gave a piano performance to all the guests.
The exhibition featured numbers of excellent artworks and timepieces, which included the work “Kong” presented by Mr. Richard Orlinski, the French Sculptor and the Brand Ambassador of HUBLOT; the music score of Chinese pianist Mr. Lang Lang; the geometrical concept work of Switzerland tattoo artist Mr. Maxime Buchi; the oil painting work of Chinese contemporary artist Mr. Minjun Yue, along with timepieces inspired by these artworks.

5月17日, HUBLOT宇舶表联合首届JINGART艺览北京博览会在北京劝业场拉开“宇舶爱艺术”展览的帷幕。
宇舶表品牌大使郎朗作为特邀嘉宾出席艺览北京开幕日, 以音符表达情感,以乐章抒发艺术共鸣。
此次“宇舶爱艺术”展览汇集了众多艺术佳作与腕表臻品,包括宇舶表品牌大使当代艺术家、法国雕塑大师理查德·奥林斯基的”Kong“,记录钢琴大师郎朗音乐感悟之路的乐谱、瑞士刺青艺术家马克西姆·布奇的几何概念、当代艺术大师岳敏君的油画作品,以及灵感源自这些艺术理念的腕表。

Tiffany & Co. Opens Pop-up Store To Celebrate True Love
“蒂芙尼·爱之旅”限时体验展于上海浪漫呈现

On 18 May, just in time for the ”520” special love day, Tiffany & Co. unveiled its pop-up shop at Plaza 66, Shanghai.
Ms. Ouyang Shaohua, the Vice President of Tiffany & Co. China, and Chinese celebrity couple Ms. Huo Siyan and Mr. Du Jiang attend the event.
The shop was filled with chic customizable jewelry and accessories from the iconic jeweler’s signature Tiffany T and Return to Tiffany collections. This exhibition was divided into five parts:Love Rendezvous; Love Theater; Love Telephone; Hand Meets Hand and You And Me. The concept and design of the shop allows couples to try out various  interactions in an interesting approach.

5月18日, 为诠释浓情520,Tiffany & Co. 蒂芙尼在上海恒隆广场中庭举行了“蒂芙尼•爱之旅”限时体验展开幕仪式。开幕式当天,蒂芙尼公司中国副总裁及董事总经理欧阳昭华女士与蒂芙尼中国区品牌挚爱大使杜江和霍思燕夫妇莅临现场,共同为展览揭幕。现场带来了众多来自品牌标志性系列的珠宝作品,展览以“Love Rendezvous”、“Love Theater”、“Love Telephone”、“Hand Meets Hand”和“You And Me”五个主题展开,在杜江、霍思燕两人的爱意和甜蜜中,满载着蒂芙尼的浪漫情怀,为众人开启一段美妙的爱情之旅。

Audemars Piguet held an exhibition to present its new Royal Oak ladies’ watches at Nanjing
全新皇家橡树系列女装腕表耀目登陆南京

Lasted from 22 to 30 May, Audemars Piguet held an exhibition to present its new Royal Oak ladies’ watches at Deji Plaza, Nanjing. Featured gem-set bezels with sapphires or diamonds, a series of Royal Oak ladies’ novelties were expressed in yellow gold, pink gold and white gold, presenting a new interpretation of iconic Royal Oak in a smaller size.

5月22日至5月30日,Audemars Piguet爱彼在德基广场耀目开启“全新皇家橡树系列女装腕表静态展”。2018年全新皇家橡树系列女装腕表,以非凡的宝石镶嵌演绎这一传奇系列的现代风范。

Jaquet Droz held BASELWORLD 2018 Novelties Preview in Beijing
雅克德罗在北京举办2018巴塞尔新品分享会

On 24 May, Jaquet Droz held two “THE STORY OF THE UNIQUE” BASELWORLD 2018 novelties preview at boutiques of The Malls At Oriental Plaza Beijing and APM Beijing.
The One collection, Grande Seconde Moon collection and the Lady 8 Petite were presented at the preview events.

时值品牌280周年华诞之际,Jaquet Droz雅克德罗于5月24日在北京东方新天地和APM精品店内举办“THE STORY OF THE UNIQUE”2018年巴塞尔新品品鉴会。
此次分享会带来One系列、Grande Seconde Moon月相大秒针系列及Lady 8 Petite优雅8系列的腕表。

Vacheron Constantin celebrated the 10th Anniversary of its Shanghai Mansion
上海江诗丹顿之家十周年庆典 钜献传奇之夜

On 27 May, Vacheron Constantin presented a gala night to celebrate the 10th anniversary of its Shanghai Mansion.
Mrs. Ellen Sorensen, Managing Director of Vacheron Constantin China, Mr. Christian Selmoni, Style and Heritage Director of Vacheron Constantin, Ms. Clemence Charrier, International Retail Director, Mr. Dominique Bernaz, Les Cabinotiers Clients Director and Mr. Pierre Liu, General Manager of Vacheron Constantin China attended the event.
To celebrate this milestone, guests have been invited to discover delicate pieces from Métiers d’Art Les Aérostiers and one-of-a-kind masterpieces of Les Cabinotiers, which were introduced for the first time in China.

5月27日,Vacheron Constantin江诗丹顿于上海江诗丹顿之家举行十周年庆典,致庆十年传奇时光。
江诗丹顿中国区行政总裁宋霭伦女士、江诗丹顿风格及传承总监Christian Selmoni先生、全球零售总监Clemence Charrier女士、阁楼工匠客户总监Dominique Bernaz先生与江诗丹顿中国区总经理刘荣松先生莅临现场,与贵宾们共同庆祝上海江诗丹顿之家成立十周年。
为了此次庆典,江诗丹顿带来Métiers d’Art艺术大师系列Les Aérostiers热气球腕表及诸多独一无二的Les Cabinotiers阁楼工匠时计作品首次亮相中国。

BAUME & MERCIER Held SIHH Novelties Preview Luncheon in Shanghai
名士于上海举办SIHH新品鉴赏午餐会

On 31 May, BAUME & MERCIER held a SIHH Novelties Preview Luncheon at Park Hyatt Shanghai.
Mr. Geoffroy Lefebvre, CEO of BAUME & MERCIER, Mr. Daniel Braillard, COO of BAUME & MERCIER and Mr. Keith Law, the Managing Director of BAUME & MERCIER China attended this luncheon.
The new timepieces of Clifton Baumatic were presented at the preview event.

5月31日,BAUME & MERCIER名士于上海柏悦酒店举办2018SIHH新品鉴赏午餐会。名士全球首席执行官Geoffroy Lefebvre先生、名士全球首席运营官Daniel Braillard先生及名士大中华区董事总经理 Keith Law先生参加了此次鉴赏午餐会。此次鉴赏会带来克里顿Baumatic腕表。

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