The Ruder Finn Watch – 11st Issue

A Glimpse of the Past Month
市场纵深
GPHG, Keeping Pace with Time
大赏,更宽广
The Grand Prix d’Horlogerie de Genève this year welcomes two notable additions: Challenge Watch Prize and Audacity Prize. The former opens to watches with a retail price under CHF 4,000, and for the first time, smartwatches are admissible in this category. By facing the “crisis” of the smartwatch tide, Swiss traditional watchmaking is embracing the trend, as some affordable, even some mid to high end watch brands that don’t have heritage/history restraints, have had their brand-labeled smartwatches in the market. For traditional “traditional” brands, their high positioning and pricing strategy may not be affected in short term. While for a long haul, the popularity of smartwatches may bring a habit shift: young people may lose their potential interest, and even sense of wearing (expensive or not) a mechanical watch. GPHG welcomes smartwatches, an initiative of keeping pace with time.
The Audacity Prize rewards the best watch, presented in one of the 12 categories, which features a non-conformist, offbeat approach to watchmaking. The prize is discretionary and the jury will decide whether there are grounds for awarding it in 2018.
Stay tuned for the announcement.

今年的日内瓦钟表大赏(GPHG)多了两项瞩目的新奖项:挑战奖与无畏奖。
挑战奖面向零售价在4,000瑞郎以下的腕表,且首次接受智能腕表参与评选。面对智能腕表逐步占据手腕所带来的“危机”,瑞士传统制表选择了迎合和融入。亲民的乃至一些“年轻”的中高端瑞士制表品牌陆续发布了自己的智能腕表;而传统的高级制表品牌在短期内不太会受到冲击,需要警惕的是智能腕表的风行可能带来的长期效应,即年轻消费族群对传统腕表的兴趣会因此消退甚至无法养成。日内瓦钟表大赏选择了接受智能腕表的加入,是属于这个时代的举动。
无畏奖则是向打破常规、不拘一格的腕表创作致敬,从大赏下属的12大奖项类别的所有获奖表款中,评选出一枚合格表款。该奖项非必设奖项,如评委会认为当年无合格表款,则奖项空缺。
让我们拭目以待!

Skull, The Most Mass Totem of Minority Culture
骷髅:最大众的小众图腾

在不久前公布的日内瓦钟表大赏(GPHG)入围表款中,共有四枚骷髅表入围。

HYT Skull Light is a candidate of Chronometry Watch Prize

HYT的Skull Light入围最佳天文台表(Chronometry)

Speake-Marin Crazy Skulls Orchid is a candidate of Chronometry Watch Prize

Speake-Marin的Crazy Skulls Orchid入围最佳天文台表(Chronometry)

Corum Coin Hobo is a candidate of Artistic Crafts Watch Prize

昆仑(Corum)的流浪币(Coin Hobo)腕表入围最佳工艺表(Artistic Crafts)

Strom Agonium Collection “In Memoriam HR Giger” is a candidate of Artistic Crafts Watch Prize

Strom的Agonium系列“纪念汉斯·鲁道夫·吉格尔”入围最佳工艺表(Artistic Crafts)

The most common symbolic use of the skull is as a representation of death and mortality. Evolvingly human skull symbolism has been becoming an everlasting icon of popularity.
It makes us wonder: except for some special professions, is serious watchmaking really for people wearing to tell the time? We hence list reasons as below to explain why are we wearing an “expensive” mechanical watch?
  • A taste of style
  • An expression of attitude
  • A statement of identity
  • A favor of fine things
  • A fondness of complication and sophistication
In this sense, traditional fine watchmaking brands have seen its opportunities.

骷髅缘何成为一个经久不衰的设计元素?是死亡?还是危险?是生命?还是重生?骷髅越发脱离了恐怖和邪恶的本来面目,成为年轻流行文化的符号。
从骷髅表以单一形象占据日内瓦钟表大赏一席,让我们反思,除了一些特定族群,我们喜欢或佩戴价格不菲的腕表,真的是为了让我们读取时间吗?

  • 造型搭配
  • 自我态度的表达
  • 彰显身份与品位
  • 喜好精致的事物
  • 喜欢精密复杂的机械
从这个意义上而言,传统制表品牌其实早已知晓他们的未来在哪里。
What Was Happening
品牌动向
TAG Heuer Presented The “Museum in Motion” Exhibition in Shanghai
泰格豪雅Museum in Motion巡展上海站
From 1 to 17 June, TAG Heuer brought its exhibition tour “Museum in Motion” to Shanghai, in its flagship store at West Nanjing Road.
The exhibition not only displayed the rare historical timepieces that are housed in Musée International d’Horlogerie, but also presented some private collections from collectors.

2018年6月1日至6月17日,泰格豪雅在其位于上海南京西路的旗舰店内举办Museum in Motion 巡展。
在此次巡展中,泰格豪雅不仅带来了藏于品牌拉绍德封博物馆(Musée International d’Horlogerie)中的历史稀有时计,更有部分收藏家们的个人珍宝参加展览。

“Time, Hermès” Exhibition in Chengdu
”时间,爱马仕之物“钟表新品展览亮相成都

From 6 to 17 June, Hermès held the “Time, Hermès” exhibition at its boutique of Sino-Ocean Taikoo Li Chengdu.
Hermès Slim d’Hermès GMT, Carré H, Cape Cod and Arceau Casaque watches were displayed in a playful way in this exhibition.

2018年6月6日至17日期间,爱马仕于成都远洋太古里精品店内开启“时光,爱马仕之物”主题展,颂递时光之美。
在此次展览中,爱马仕Slim d’Hermès GMT两地时腕表、Carré H腕表、Cape Cod腕表到Arceau Casaque腕表都以奇特调皮的装置呈现,邀观者与之互动。

CITIZEN Celebrated its 100th Anniversary in Beijing
西铁城百年盛典

On 8 June, CITIZEN presented a gala event to celebrate its 100th anniversary and the 60th anniversary of entering in China at the Reignwood Theater Beijing.
Ms. Hebe Tien, celebrity from Taiwan and Brand Ambassador of CITIZEN, Mr. Toshio Tokura, President and CEO of CITIZEN, Mr. Jukawa Tatsuo, General Manager of CITIZEN China attended the event.
CITIZEN specially presented 6 classic timepieces and 9 limited edition timepieces for the 100th anniversary.

2018年6月8日,西铁城在北京华彬歌剧院迎来品牌100周年、进入中国60周年的庆典。
西铁城代言人田馥甄、西铁城时计株式会社董事长兼社长户仓敏夫、西铁城(中国)钟表有限公司董事长兼总经理住川龙夫亲临现场,与到场嘉宾共享百年华诞的荣光与喜悦。
此次盛典也展出了6款经典之作以及9款100周年纪念系列限量表款。

OMEGA Presented the “Bright Sky” Constellation Series Exhibition in Beijing
欧米茄于在北京举办“璀璨星空”星座系列腕表展

On 10 June, OMEGA held the “Bright Sky” Constellation Series Exhibition at SKP Beijing.
Mrs. Liu Shishi, Celebrity Ambassador of OMEGA, Mr. Hua Yang, Vice President of OMEGA China, Mr. Jean-Pascal Perret, Vice President of Public Relations and Marketing Communications of OMEGA, Mr. Koichi Sagae, Assistant Store Manager of SKP Beijing attended the event.
In the exhibition, OMEGA specially presented 36 timepieces of the Constellation Series which include Globalmaster, Constellation Petite Seconde and “Blue Sky” Limited Edition Ladies watch.

2018年6月10日,欧米茄于北京SKP举办“璀璨星空”欧米茄星座系列腕表展。
欧米茄名人大使刘诗诗、欧米茄中国区副总裁杨骅、欧米茄公关与市场传播副总裁贝哲培、北京SKP常务副店长寒河江功一莅临现场,与到场嘉宾共赏品牌时尚经典的星座系列时计臻品。
此次展览上,欧米茄精心挑选并呈现了36款星座系列腕表,包括星座系列尊霸腕表、星座系列至臻天文台小秒针腕表,以及星座系列“蓝色星空”限量版女士腕表等。

Parmigiani Fleurier Kalpa Collection Novelties Launched in Shanghai
帕玛强尼Kalpa全新系列发布会

On 14 June, the Parmigiani Fleurier Kalpa collection made a glittering debut in Shanghai.
Mr. Michel Parmigiani, the watchmaking and restoration master, Brand Founder of Parmigiani Fleurier and Mr. Mingliang Dong, General Manager of Parmigiani Fleurier China attended the launch event.
The event not only presented Kalpa Hebdomadaire, Kalpagraphe Chronomètre and Kalpa Chronor watch that had been launched in 2018 SIHH, but also launched the brand-new Kalpa Qualité Fleurier timepiece.

2018年6月14日,瑞士高级制表品牌帕玛强尼于上海举行Kalpa全新系列发布会。
品牌创始人、制表大师及修复大师米歇尔·帕玛强尼及大中华区总经理董明亮莅临现场, 与来宾共赏Kalpa系列腕表。
此次发布会不仅展出了于2018年日内瓦国际钟表展览上隆重推出的Kalpa Hebdomadaire腕表、Kalpagraphe Chronomètre腕表和Kalpa Chronor腕表,还发布了匠心之作Kalpa Qualité Fleurier腕表。

Jaeger‑LeCoultre Celebrated Eight Years of Partnership with the Shanghai International Film Festival 
积家与上海国际电影节共赴八年之约 举办主题展览及慈善晚宴

On 16 June, Jaeger-LeCoultre hosted a gala dinner, at which a charitable auction was held to contribute to the restoration of classic Chinese films, as well as a themed exhibition that embodies the brand’s spirit at the Expo I-Pavilion Shanghai.
Ms. Catherine Rénier, CEO of Jaeger-LeCoultre and celebrities Mr. Boran Jing, Ms. Ni Ni, Ms. Joan Chen and Mrs. Hong Tao attended the event.
The Rendez-Vous Night & Day Tribute to Cinema, created for this unique anniversary, made its appearance at the exhibition during the festival. Moreover, the brands’ new collection Jaeger-LeCoultre Polaris, together with the Master and Reverso collections and antique pieces and fine jewelry watches were also displayed at the exhibition. The Jaeger-LeCoultre Glory to the Filmmaker Award, initiated with and for the Venice International Film Festival, made debut in China, honoring pioneer filmmakers who have made breakthroughs in Chinese cinematics; Ms. Joan Chen received the award.

2018年6月16日,作为上海国际电影节的官方合作伙伴,积家于上海世博创意秀场举办慈善晚宴以及主题展览,并以慈善拍卖的方式倾情投入中国电影修复项目。
积家全球首席执行官Catherine Rénier女士及积家品牌挚友井柏然、倪妮、陈冲、陶虹等众多明星参加了此次活动。
全新Rendez-Vous Night & Day约会系列日夜显示腕表——致敬光影限量款现身上海国际电影节,并于主题展览上展出。不仅如此,此次主题展览更有品牌全新成员北宸系列,以及Master大师系列、Reverso翻转系列经典腕表的身影,并有从瑞士汝山谷积家大工坊远道而来的古董款和高级珠宝款腕表。此外,诞生于威尼斯国际电影节的“积家电影人荣誉奖”也首次踏入中国,致敬为电影艺术带来突破的中国电影人,首座奖杯由陈冲获得。

BVLGARI Held an Opening Party for SIFF Special Film Presentation Section
宝格丽于上海国际电影节期间 举办展映单元开幕派对

On 19 June, BVLGARI held an opening party for its screening unit – A Flamboyant Festa by BVLGARI at the Former Site of Shanghai General Chamber of Commerce (BVLGARI Hotel Shanghai) during 2018 Shanghai International Film & TV Festival.
Mr. Kris Wu, Global Brand Ambassador of BVLGARI and celebrities Ms. Sammi Cheng, famous singer of Hong Kong, Mr. Stephen Fung, famous actor and director of Hong Kong, Mr. Jean-Christophe Babin, CEO of BVLGARI Group, Mr. Kolia Neveux, General Manager of BVLGARI China attended the party.

2018年6月19日,宝格丽于上海国际电影节期间,在上海总商会大楼为“宝格丽经典呈现:喜亦风流”展映单元举办了开幕派对。
宝格丽首席执行官让·克里斯托夫·巴宾、宝格丽大中华区董事总经理柯力亚先生及宝格丽全球品牌代言人吴亦凡、歌手及演员郑秀文、导演及演员冯德伦等纷纷亮相开幕酒会。

“HUBLOT Loves Football” Exhibition in Beijing
“宇舶爱足球”巡展北京站

On 26 June, “HUBLOT Loves Football” Exhibition was held at SKP Beijing.
Mr. Loic Biver, Brand Director of HUBLOT China and friend of the brand Mr. Johnny Huang attended the event.
The exhibition retraced the connection between HUBLOT and football.

2018年6月26日, 宇舶表“宇舶爱足球”巡展在北京SKP商场一层中庭举行。
宇舶中国区品牌总监Loic Biver先生与品牌挚友黄景瑜莅临现场,与宇舶表一同见证绿茵场上的每一个激昂时刻。
此次展览回顾了宇舶表与足球的荣耀征程,领略足球世界的王者风范。

BREITLING Opens First Flagship Boutique In Asia In Beijing
百年灵亚洲首家旗舰店落户北京

On 27 June, Breitling celebrated the grand opening of its first flagship boutique in Asia in WF Central Beijing.
Mr. Jiayin Lei, Chinese famous actor and friend of the brand, Ms. Cecilia Han, Chinese famous actress, Mr. Georges Kern, CEO of Breitling, Mr. Jacques Bothelin, Captain of Breitling Jet Team attended the opening ceremony.
The brand-new design concept of Breitling flagship boutique in WF Central incorporates a comfortable and fashionable shopping space for customers and a display of more than 200 exquisite timepieces representing Breitling’s entire product range, along with the Navitimer 8 novelties and some exclusive limited editions.

2018年6月27日,百年灵首家亚洲旗舰店于北京王府中环盛大开幕。
百年灵首席执行官乔治·科恩先生,百年灵喷气机队队长雅克·波特林先生及著名演员雷佳音,韩雪共同为这个久负盛名的品牌揭开全新篇章。
百年灵北京王府中环旗舰店采用全新店铺设计概念,不仅为消费者带来舒适时髦的空间,更精心呈现了包括航空计时8系列新品及限量款时计臻品在内的两百余枚全系列腕间杰作。

刘涛优雅演绎Chopard萧邦全新Happy Diamonds系列臻作
Liu Tao astounds in the latest Chopard Happy Diamonds collection

Wearing a delightful smile on each of her public appearances, Liu Tao infuses her acting career with a very special glow. Immediately won over by her positive attitude and contagious optimism, Chopard’s Co-President and Creative Director Caroline Scheufele recognised in her a symbol of the values instilled in the Maison’s iconic Happy Diamonds collection. It was then that Caroline wanted  to ask Liu Tao to serve as brand ambassador and muse of these creations associated with the joyful moments in the life of the women who wear them – and fly high the banner of their joie de vivre.

公众眼前的刘涛笑容明媚、神采飞扬,Chopard萧邦联合总裁兼艺术总监卡罗琳·舍费尔(Caroline Scheufele)被她对生活的积极态度和乐观精神所吸引,视其风格气质为品牌经典Happy Diamonds系列所蕴含价值观的体现。因此,卡罗琳·舍费尔诚邀刘涛担任品牌形象大使及Happy Diamonds系列作品的灵感缪斯。此系列作品也见证了佩戴者的幸福时刻,尽展她们乐享生活的理念。

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